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Nigerian Dwarf, Mini Alpine and Mini Saanen Goats and Kids (Babies) For Sale

kids   kids
Photo License: Hazel Moon Photography

We are proud breeders of ADGA registered Nigerian Dwarf goats. We also have a small selection of mini Alpine and mini Saanen Dairy goats. We are located in Waynesboro, Virginia which is conveniently located off I-81 and I-64 in the beautiful Shenandoah Valley. Conveniently located within 1.5 -2 hours of major destinations in Virginia, approximately 2 hours from Northern Virginia and only 1.5 hours from Richmond (Central) Virginia. We often have transports running down I-81 through Roanoke Virginia, Bristol, Tennessee, Kingsport TN and through Wise, VA.

We breed for heavy milk production, excellence in conformation, easy to milk (large) teats, parasite resistance and of course personality! All our babies are bottle raised and love human affection!

There will be many adult does in milk being sold after kidding January - April 2019.
Click here to see what I have listed so far, more to come!
Click here to see ** Doe Sales Page **



Click here to jump to kidding schedule introduction - includes info on what you get with your purchase!


Click here to jump directly to 2019 Kidding Schedule



Questions about buying a new goat?

When looking to buy a new goat, it is important to know what your goals are. Are you looking for excellent milk production? Are you looking for goats with the potential to be show goats? Are you just wanting some super cute little goats as pets? Are you looking for registered goats? Here are some answers to some of the most common questions new goat owners ask.

  1. - Should I buy a registered goat?
    There are many reasons that buying registered goats make sense.
  2. It costs the same to feed and care for a registered goat as it does for an unregistered goat. Registered goats are generally going to be more expensive, but there is long term value to consider.
    Registered goats are easier to sell. You can sell a registerable goat without papers, but you can't do the opposite. If your goat is unregistered, the potential market for selling your goat (or its kids) just shrunk by about 80%.
    Registered goats will always command a higher price on average than unregistered goats, even despite equal quality.
    Registered goats have a pedigree to back them up, and are able to compete in shows, be linearly appraised or enroll in other performance programs. Even if you never plan on utilizing anything like that, your potential buyers very well may participate and you'll be shutting out a group of buyers.
    Even if you don't plan on being a 'big' breeder, registration makes sense. If you are breeding even just one doe per year, you'll be getting babies every year. You'll put the same effort into the kids whether they are registered or not, but in the end an unregistered goat baby will sell for $50-$100 (boys) to $150-$250 (girls) or so (at least around here) whereas the same goats could sell for $250-$600on up (boys) to $400-$600on up with registration papers, as an example.
    The exception to this is with neutered males (known as wethers). These are not registered and can not produce offspring, so registration is not needed.

    - What type of housing do they need?

    Goats need basic housing to keep them dry (goats HATE to get wet) and to protect them from wind during the winter. Do you have predetor issues? Coyotes, bear and fox can all be predators of goats, but the #1 killer of goats is roaming dogs. Its safest to lock up your goats at night. You will need something that locks up securely. My first goats were kept in a used wooden children's playhouse (8'x10'). I built shelves in it for them and a loft to sleep in and I still have it to this day! It was comfortable for up to around 8-9 goats (the loft really added to the space) My herd eventually outgrew the playhouse and now it is a happy home to chickens. Goats do fine in the cold as long as they are protected from drafts and from being wet. They still need proper ventilation, so resist the urge to completely wrap up their housing in the winter! Also DO NOT, I repeat, DO NOT use heat lamps. EVERY YEAR I hear about many barn fires, with all animals DEAD due to using heat lamps. They are NOT safe. Don't risk it!
    If you are in the process of planning and building your shelter, it is wise to have some sort of earthen floor. Something that will drain. Dirt, grass, gravel, covered with bedding are all fine. Concrete, wood, tile...etc, are not going to drain, will hold all the wetness and you will have to scoop out and replace bedding every 4-5 days or so. You don't have to do that if you have a floor that drains. :)

    - What type of fencing do they need?
    Your goats will need a large enough fenced in area for them to be able to run around, jump and play. If they are not going to be on pasture, their fenced in area should still be big enough for them to run around a bit and get exercise. A healthy goat needs exercise. From their fenced in area, they should have free access to and from their shelter (i.e. the shelter should be in the fenced area) so that they can get out of rain and/or mid day storms. Your goat's fencing is as much to keep them IN as it is to keep other things OUT. One of the top killers of goats is roaming dogs. I can't tell you how many times I have heard people say a stray dog has killed their goat(s). Good woven wire field fencing that has been properly installed (with no large gaps underneath and properly stretched) should work for most situations. You may have specific circumstances that dictate more. Small babies can get through the larger holes in standard field fencing. A row of chicken wire zip tied across the bottom can help until they get too big to fit through the holes. I personally prefer the plastic "poultry netting" fencing for this purpose because it doesn't crush down like regular chicken wire. Sometimes the babies just crush chicken wire down and then can still get out.

    - What do they eat?
    Goats are browsers, they love many weeds, pasture grasses, leaves and shrubery. There are some plants that are poisonous to goats. Some are more poisoness than others. You will want to look these up to ensure you have a safe area for your goats. The top deadly ones that come to mind (look them up!!!) are Japanese Yew, Rhododendron, Mountain Laurel, and cherry tree leaves that have wilted after a branch breaks (creates cyanide).
    Make sure that the grass you have is not common lawn fescue if you plan on that being their main food source. It has no nutrition for them. If all you have is fescue, then you will need to provide a good quality hay for your goats. If you have good pasture with plenty of browse, then you will only need to provide hay during the winter or if it is raining all day in other seasons where they can't get out to eat. In addition to hay or pasture, most people give a treat each evening. This is especially helpful if you need the goats to go into their house to be locked up for the night. You can get a quality goat feed at Tractor Supply or your local co-op.  Its very important not to overfeed your goats with grain! It can cause many illnesses that can cause death. I will go over feed amounts with all buyers before they take a goat home. If you are feeding any type of grain, become familiar with how it is supposed to look. If you only have a few goats, it will take you a long time to get through an entire bag and it can mold. Sometimes it is very hard to spot... sometimes just little spots on the pellets. Be diligent with checking your grain for freshness. I've even opened brand new bags that had mold so become familiar with what it should look like and be sure it has no mold. MOLD KILLS GOATS. They get listeriosis from it which is very deadly.

    Your goats will also need loose minerals (also available at feed stores). Do not get them the mineral blocks. They can not get enough of it in their systems. They really need the loose minerals. Do not get one that is for goats & sheep. It doesn't have the copper in it that goats need. I use one that is called Meat Maker by Sweetlix. Minerals should be left out "free choice", which means that it is always available and they can have as much as they want. I keep it in their shelters by their water.
    Finally, they will also need free choice baking soda. It helps them with digestion.

    - What type of care do they need?
    Other than providing clean water every day, free choice minerals, free choice baking soda and either pasture or hay, there isn't a whole lot more to their every day care as long as they are healthy. They do need to be dewormed every so often depending on their living conditions and what they are eating. They also need their hooves trimmed periodically. Usually once a quarter works. I am happy to give a lesson on how to trim hooves to all new buyers. I also vaccinate annually with CD&T, however that is a personal choice.
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Baby Goats

Unless otherwise indicated, all baby girls (and their wether companions if applicable) are ready to go to their new homes - ON A BOTTLE - between 3 and 4 weeks old. They will need to be fed 3x a day for at least a few weeks and then can be weaned to 2x a day. Girls should be bottlefed for a minimum of 12 weeks old. Boys stay on their moms if I don't have a deposit on them before they turn 1 week old and are available at 8 weeks old.

ALL GOATS COME WITH A STARTER MEDICATION KIT!!!! This will include five medications that you should have on hand (including enough dewormer for your first year), an instant read digital thermometer, various sized syringes, needles, curved eyedropper and instructions, all in a convenient carrying case. The problem with buying these medications on your own is that you can't buy just enough for a few goats. You are stuck buying entire bottles that you will never fully use. Not only is it wasteful, but it can add up very quickly!  With just a few goats, you will never use more than a tiny bit out of those bottles before they expire so its a big waste. No one really tells you to expect to pay about $120 in start up meds once you actually get your kid home! Hopefully your goat never gets sick, but if it does, the last thing you want to do is leave your baby to go running around everywhere trying to find the right medications. Sometimes there is difficulty in finding the right meds. You DON'T want that problem if your goat needs them! So I make sure EVERY buyer goes home with a starter medication kit. If your goat is acting off, or showing symptoms of any sort, give me a call and we can decide the course of action right then and there. If the baby needs medication, you will have it right there and can start treatment immediately! I can't tell you what a relief it will be for you to have it on hand and this way it saves you a lot of money from having to buy full bottles that you will never fully use and could very possibly save you a costly vet visit! And it is certainly a relief for me as a breeder knowing that my new owners are equiped to handle any problems that may arise.  :)

Wethers are $125 and also come with a starter medication kit.

**For bottle babies, starter kits also include a bottle and nipple specifically designed for goat kids.


A NOTE ABOUT MY PRICING
I want to explain the VALUE I feel you get when purchasing from me. If you already have goats, you probably understand the value and that is why you are here. ;) For newcomers to the wonderful world of goats, aside from buying excellent quality genetics... goats bred for milk production, ease of milking AND conformation - truly the "whole package"...  you get the starter medication kit, which if you had to buy everything in the kit, you'd spend at least $120 (current actual cost of everything in the kit would be $140). They are very common items, so chances are, you are going to have to have them. So when comparing my prices to others, take that into consideration... how much are you going to have to go spend on meds to have on hand? Secondly, and this is a big one, when you purchase from me, you are buying my ongoing support.You can text me, you can email me, you can call me, I return messages within an hour or two (yes you do need to leave a message as I often don't have my hands free to answer calls as they come in, texting and email is preferred). I TRULY care about my babies AND my customers. I want my babies to be happy and healthy and I want my customers to be happy and I am sincerly happy to help with ongoing questions or concerns. If your baby is acting off, or showing symptoms of any sort, I ask you to PLEASE contact me to let me know and if medications are appropriate, you will have what you need in the kit and I can suggest what to give. This is INVALUABLE. I do not have a separate job, this IS my life so I'm not hard to get a hold of or too busy to provide ongoing support for my animals. I feel like it is my responsibily (and my joy & pleasure) to ensure my customers have everything they need to ensure a happy healthy life for my babies.
Additionally, I put a LOT of extra time, effort and expense to bottle feed babies so that they will come to you ready to bond to their new mama (the one feeding them, you!). Its way easier and way less time consuming for me to dam raise (let their mom raise them), but I put in the extra work to ensure you will have a life long, easy to handle, lovable, bonded baby. Dam raised babies CAN be just as friendly, but often they are not, which makes it way harder in the long run to work with them. You have to catch them to work with them, where as a super friendly goat wants your attention, will come to you, likes to be handled and loved on. I think this is another invaluable component to the babies I sell. It truly makes for a better goat owning experience!!! The exception to this rule is boys. If I don't have a deposit on a boy by the time he is 1 week old, he stays with his mom and available at weaning. I can't guarentee that they will be "bottle baby friendly". All girls are bottle raised.
Finally, beyond all that, you are buying from a disease tested herd. Our vet comes out annually to draw blood for our annual disease testing in January. All kids will go to their new homes with current disease testing results for the herd. All goats, male and female over 6 months of age are tested.

Several does in milk will be available after kidding. Click here to see what I have listed so far, more to come!
** Doe Sales Page **


If you would like a buckling out of any of these breedings where buck price is not listed, lets discuss your breeding goals and together, I'm sure we can find something to suite your needs. :)

********Discounts********
** $50 discount when purchasing 2 goats, $100 discount when purchasing 3 goats ** wethers are included in discount only IF purchased with a girl or breeding buckling**


Kidding Schedule Many more to come, keep checking back!

Listed in order of due Date

Prices start at $250 for mini doe kids, $450+ for Nigerian doe kids, depending on genetics. We do have multiple purchase discounts! $50 off 2, $100 off 3!! wethers are $150. If you're looking for the $450 doe kids, they are generally from the first fresheners which will be further down on the kidding schedule. - remember our kids come with starter med kits - factor that in to your buying decisions! :)

Wondering why all the different prices for different breedings? The prices are based on many factors, including, LA scores from the doe AND her lines, DHIR records from the doe AND her lines, age of the doe (first freshener's kids are going to be generally cheaper, a doe with only a kidding left in her may have their kids priced higher...etc.), predictability of the outcome of the breeding (linebreeding, repeat breeding...etc.).

Reservations are $50 for doe kids and wethers, $100 for bucks, which goes towards purchase price. I don't sell single kids. They at least need a wether companion, even if you have goats. wether companions are only $75 after discount (no other discounts apply) and you could easily just sell the companion after your doe kid is well established into the herd. So much better for the kid, so much less stress. Only exception is if you have other 100% BOTTLE KIDS that are the same age.

Kidding Schedule
Click here to go back to main page & Kidding Schedule

Blanket Reservations:
Reservations on specific breedings take priority over "blanket reservations". Blanket reservations are filled in the order received which is the same order as is listed. I'm happy to take what ever type of reservation you'd like to place. Examples of "blanket reservations" are: "black and white (or what ever your favorite color is) doe kid with companion boy", "two doe kids born in February", "two baby girls priced $550 or less", "doe kid with blue eyes", ...etc. We DO have a LOT of kids born here, so I am normally able to fulfill all blanket reservation requests!






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